Swap a Leaky Hose Bib Washer

Stop that steady drip at the outdoor spigot by replacing the tiny rubber washer inside the stem—quick, cheap, reliable.
Difficulty: Easy
Success Rate: 90%
Cost: $2 - $6
Estimated Timeline: 10–20m
Turn Off Water: Yes
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Tools Needed:

  • Phillips/flat screwdriver

  • Adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers

  • Needle-nose pliers

  • Utility knife or pick

  • Flashlight

  • Towel or small bucket

Materials / Parts:

  • Hose bib (faucet) seat washer (match size/brand)

  • Handle screw (optional replacement)

  • Stem packing or packing string (optional)

  • Plumber’s grease

  • Seat wrench or seat dresser (optional)

Safety Warnings:

  • Shut off the water before removing the stem.

  • Use gentle force on old trim to avoid cracking or bending parts.

  • Do not overtighten when reassembling—thin brass can split.

Test & Verify:

  • With the hose bib closed, watch the spout for 2–3 minutes—no drip.

  • Open and close the valve; it should turn smoothly and shut off cleanly.

  • Check around the packing nut for any weeping while the water is on.

Cleanup & Disposal:

  • Wipe away mineral residue and drips.

  • Dispose of the old washer and any worn packing.

  • Coil and store the hose; remove the bucket/towel.

Pre-Checks:

  • Confirm the leak is from the spout tip when the valve is closed (not from the packing nut around the stem).

  • Find and test the interior shutoff feeding the hose bib.

  • Note if the hose bib is a frost-free type (long body through the wall).

  • Plug a short hose on the spout to direct leftover water into a bucket.

Step-By-Step Instructions:

  1. Turn off the inside shutoff to the hose bib; open the hose bib to relieve pressure.

  2. Remove the handle screw and lift off the handle; set parts aside.

  3. Loosen the packing/bonnet nut behind the handle and unthread it fully.

  4. Pull the stem straight out from the body; a little wiggling is normal.

  5. At the end of the stem, remove the small screw and the old rubber seat washer.

  6. Clean the stem tip and apply a tiny dab of plumber’s grease. Install a matching new washer and snug the screw (do not overtighten).

  7. Inspect the valve seat inside the faucet body. If it’s nicked or pitted, remove it with a seat wrench and install a matching new seat—or lightly dress it with a seat dresser.

  8. If water previously seeped around the stem while on, replace the stem packing or add packing string; snug the packing nut lightly.

  9. Reinsert the stem into the body; thread the bonnet/packing nut by hand, then snug with a wrench.

  10. Reinstall the handle and screw. Close the hose bib fully, then slowly open the interior shutoff and check operation.

When to Stop & Call a Pro:

  • Frost-free body is split (common after freezing).

  • Valve seat is seized/rounded or the body threads are damaged.

  • Shutoff valve inside won’t close or starts leaking.

  • Persistent drip after new washer and seat inspection.

Common Mistakes:

  • Using the wrong washer size or a hard, brittle washer.

  • Skipping seat inspection—nicked seats cut new washers.

  • Overtightening the packing nut, making the handle stiff or causing leaks.

  • Forgetting to shut off water before pulling the stem.

Troubleshooting:

Q: Still drips after a new washer.
A: Inspect/replace the valve seat; ensure the new washer screw is snug and the stem tip is clean.

Q: Leaks around the stem while on.
A: Add or replace stem packing; snug the packing nut a quarter turn.

Q: Handle is very stiff after reassembly.
A: Loosen the packing nut slightly and add a touch of grease to the stem.

Q: Water sprays from the connection when opened.
A: Re-seat the bonnet/packing nut and ensure the stem is fully inserted.