Fix a Dripping Faucet (Compression)

Stop the drip by swapping a tiny washer and re-seating the stem—fast, cheap, and durable.
Difficulty: Easy
Success Rate: 90%
Cost: $5 - $15
Estimated Timeline: 30–60m
Turn Off Water: Yes
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Tools Needed:

  • Phillips/flat screwdriver

  • Adjustable wrench or basin wrench

  • Seat wrench or seat dresser (optional)

  • Needle-nose pliers

  • Utility knife (to lift old washer)

  • Flashlight

Materials / Parts:

  • Compression faucet seat washer (match size; common #00–#3)

  • Replacement washer screw (often 10-24)

  • Packing string or stem O-ring (optional)

  • Plumber’s grease

  • Decorative cap putty or clear silicone (optional)

Safety Warnings:

  • Shut off water before removing the stem.

  • Use gentle force on old trim to avoid cracking porcelain or chipping finish.

  • Watch sharp edges on older metal parts.

Test & Verify:

  • With handles closed, watch the spout for any drip for 2–3 minutes.

  • Check around the handle/bonnet for weeping while on and off.

  • Confirm smooth travel and full shutoff on both sides.

Cleanup & Disposal:

  • Wipe away grease and mineral flakes.

  • Dispose of the worn washer and damaged parts.

  • Remove the drain plug and return tools.

Pre-Checks:

  • Confirm it’s a compression faucet (two handles; tighten to close).

  • Test hot/cold shutoff valves under the sink.

  • Plug the drain to catch screws and small parts.

  • Note the drip source: spout tip vs. around the stem/handle.

Step-By-Step Instructions:

  1. Turn off the hot and cold shutoff valves; open the faucet to relieve pressure.

  2. Pry off the handle cap; remove the handle screw and lift the handle.

  3. Unscrew the retaining/bonnet nut and keep parts in order.

  4. Pull out the valve stem; note its orientation.

  5. Remove the small screw at the stem tip and the old rubber washer.

  6. Match and install a new washer; add a tiny dab of plumber’s grease; snug the screw.

  7. Inspect the valve seat inside the body. If nicked or pitted, remove and replace with a matching seat, or dress it lightly.

  8. If water leaked around the handle, replace the packing/O-ring on the stem and grease lightly.

  9. Reinsert the stem. Thread the bonnet nut by hand, then snug with a wrench—do not overtighten.

  10. Reinstall the handle and cap. Close the handles.

  11. Slowly reopen the shutoff valves and operate the faucet to seat the washer.

When to Stop & Call a Pro:

  • Shutoff valves won’t close or begin to leak.

  • Valve seat is seized, rounded, or threads are damaged.

  • Stem is badly corroded, stripped, or broken.

  • Drip remains after new washer and seat work.

Common Mistakes:

  • Wrong washer size or brittle washer.

  • Overtightening the bonnet nut, causing stiffness or leaks.

  • Skipping the drain plug and losing parts.

  • Ignoring a pitted valve seat.

Troubleshooting:

Q: Still drips after a new washer.
A: Inspect/replace the valve seat; a nicked seat cuts the new washer.

Q: Water seeps around the handle when on.
A: Replace stem packing/O-ring and snug the bonnet nut slightly.

Q: Handle is very stiff after reassembly.
A: Loosen the bonnet nut a quarter turn and add a touch of grease.

Q: Noisy screech when opening.
A: Washer may be loose, the screw under-tightened, or the seat rough—retighten or dress/replace the seat.